Tuesday 17 July 2012

Days 22 and 23

Friday - Jabiru to Gunlom
It was a very early start today as we were booked in to the sunrise cruise on Yellow Waters. The only issue was we were camped just over 50km from where we had to be, so alarms were set for 5:15am for a quick get up, get dressed and get going. Fortunately all went well and we were on our flat bottom boat with 50 others by 6.45am. The mist was still sitting on the water as we motored out across the water. Before long the sun began to rise as did all the bird and animal life spring to life. The guide quickly pointed out the crocs as they are territorial animals and there were plenty of them. I loved hearing the sound of the barramundi cracking a noise as they sucked down their morning fish feed. As we were all asked to remain silent and listen to the sounds a croc goes up to where the sound was and snaps his jaw at a barra in the water which he missed but what an exciting sight and sound to behold. The bird life was fascinating to observe and as we motored back the water lily flowers had opened up. So pretty in pink set amongst really broad lily pads. The ticket included buffet breakfast at the local accommodation complex at cooinda which was yummy and a nice change.
 
Azure kingfisher
Whistling ducks checking out their neighbour.
 
We drove the 40 odd minutes back to Jabiru as the temperature started to rise and after packing up camp we set off back down the road with the destination for lunch being Maguk (barramundi gorge). On the way we stopped in at the cultural centre at Cooinda as it is more focused on aboriginal culture, where as the visitor centre at Jabiru is more focused on the enviroment in the park. Maguk is 12km off the highway along a 4wd track and it was very heavilly corrigated. We rock up and had lunch under a shady tree and then set out on the 1km walk to the waterfall and plunge pool. Glad i put on my swimmers as it was so hot and lots of climbing over rocks for nearly half the walk. It was so worth the effort as it was a beautifull spot. The water was a lovely temperature too. I loved it there! One of the best swims for me (Fiona) this trip and as usual Brett wanted to swim across to the falls. There seemed to be good sized perch living in this waterhole too but we didn't have any fishing gear.
 
 
We then headed back out over the corrugations to then travel 42km down the highway before turning off again to head towards Gunlom (Waterfall Creek). This was a 37km dirt road which was also corrugated but manageable by 2wd cars or vans (generally rentals driven by backpackers). It was stinking hot when we arrived so after a quick setup we headed to the plunge pool to cool off.
 
 
That night we listened to a ranger give an open air slide show on bush tucker under the stars. It was so interesting learning about what was edible and how the locals prepared their food.
 
Now if these falls seem familiar, that is because it was used in a scene in Crocodile Dundee. Actually there are a few places in Kakadu used in that movie. Places we visited that we're also used for scenes were Ubirr lookout where we viewed the sunset and Nourlangi Rock (a scene looking across the billabong towards the rocky outcrop).
 
 
Saturday - Gunlom to Douglas Hot Springs
 
The people camped next to us had told us about the walk up to the top of the falls being worth it as the views were spectacular. They said the walk was rocky but manageable so after breakfast we headed off before the sun came up to high as it was still shaded at this time..
The sign post at the bottom said steep and strenuous. Well it was a hell of a climb and over rocks the whole way and while going up you started to get an idea of the views each time you looked out, but once at the top you were greeted with an amazing view of the surrounding area including our campsite, but best of all were these wonderful water holes to swim in which the top of the waterfall flowed through. There were 3 pools that we swam in and little waterfalls everywhere. The best part was the view looking out across to the escarpment. It were as if you were swimming in a horizon pool. Once again so worth the effort to climb to the top.
 
 
After our strenuous climb up, swim, climb down we packed our camper, Brett had one last swim in the plunge pool and we decided to have lunch. As we drove out we passed lots of cars coming in and we think it was due to being a saturday and locals coming to camp as well as day visitors. Once back on the highway it wasn't long before we drove out of the boundaries of Kakadu and on our way towards Pine Creek. A quick look around town, fuel fill up and ice cream hit before we headed north again for about half an hour to the turn off towards the Douglas / Daly river region. Douglas Hot Springs is 27km along including 7km of good dirt road and the campground is basic with just toilet facilities and pick your own site. We drove around the sites and finally settles on a spot near the ladies toilets which turned out to be pretty good. Another quick setup before heading down to the river.
 
 
Here the river ranges in depth from chest high to ankle deep and the hot water is coming out in many various places so people generally find a spot where the temperature of the water suits them, plonk themselves down and just sit and relax. The natural setting of this place is wonderful and everyone was just so relaxed as they chatted with each other or just chilled out. Apparently the water comes out at 60c so as you can imagine there are some areas where the water is too hot to be in, but not far down stream where it mixes with some cold water is where all the people like to be. At some points it is even coming out of a crack in the rock forming a little waterfall.
 
 
Later that night a few rouges decided to let off some rather large fireworks at the other end of the campsite. Not sure what else happened but soon after the caretaker drove in and was putting a firecracker up those responsible. Boy did he get stuck into them and we could hear him from where we were. Even getting them for not paying there camp fees when they arrived (which is done with an envelope into a slot arrangement). It's good to see that this place is being looked after by someone who cares about it and the people who stay there. Apart from that it was a very peaceful night.
 
 

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