Well, today we bid farewell to Darwin but not before a quick stop at bunnings and repco for a couple of bits and we were then soon headed south and then east towards Kakadu.
Drove through Humpty Doo (how did it ever get that name?) and first stop was an impromptu decision to go on one of the jumping croc tours on the Adelaide River. We didn't know what time they left or how often so when we got near there at 10:55 and spotted a sign that said tours left at 11:00 we hurried up a bit and arrived in the carpark just as people were boarding the boat. Phew, we made it as we didn't want to wait around another 2 hours for the next one. these cruises take a trip up the Adelaide River and they entice the crocs to come to the boat by dangling a big chop on a piece of string. The crocs have gotten used to it now and some approach the boat before the meat is even out there. It's amazing to see these animals get so far out of the water with just the power of their tail. I know the fishing is good up there but I don't think I would be trying my luck in that area in a tinnie.
They also showed how well a sea eagle flys and can grab its food mid flight as well as feeding a flock of whistling kites (which are everywhere up here and help clean up road kills).
Once the cruise was over we made a quick visit to the 'window on the wetlands' centre for our first introduction to the environment that makes up a lot of Kakadu. It was getting pretty warm at this stage and we drove down the road to find some shade for lunch before getting back into the air conditioned comfort of the car. A quick stop at the Bark Hut Inn and then on to Jabiru to set up camp. Due to the heat we set up in record time so that we could get to the pool to cool down. the temperature was 34 degrees at 4pm.
Wednesday - Kakadu
First port of call today was the National Parks Visitors centre to get our pass which costs $25 per person (kids free). If you lived in the NT then you don't need to pay the fee. I wish the national parks in the state I lived in gave me that deal.
As we were planning to visit the Injalak Arts centre in Oenpelli in Arnhem land we needed to arrange a permit to enter that land. A quick google to find the address had us soon in the right location in Jabiru and the process was easier than I thought. A short form to fill out, $16 per person (adults only again) and the deal was done and the ladies working in that office were very friendly.
Now that all the admin stuff was out the way we headed to Nourlangi Rock which is a large rocky formation that provided a home to aboriginals in the past. The walking path from the car park takes you past rock art sites, viewing platforms overlooking the plains with the escarpment in the distance, and a place where they would have lived under this huge rock that was angled to provide excellent shelter. In here you could see where the grinding holes were for probably both grinding seeds for food as well as ochre for the paintings on the rock.
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| Shelter that aboriginals called home |
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| Was pretty warm this day. Most of the backpack was full of water. |
Back to the car and it was time for lunch before heading off again. A quick stop at a billabong for a look see and it's so tempting to go near the edge of these waterways but knowing how big the crocs can get I stood back a bit to take the photos.
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| Looking back towards Nourlangi Rock |
We drove down to Cooinda to pick up our tickets for the sunrise cruise which we booked earlier In the day before heading back to camp for another swim. We were planning to view the sunset at Ubirr but a few pesky ants got into the food tub in the camper and that had to be sorted, so we would do the sunset viewing the next night.
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| Chantelle loved playing with her jigsaw puzzles. |
Thursday - Kakadu
Today was a day we were both looking forward to, one of us because we would get to visit the Injalak Arts centre and the other because they would get to drive into Arnhem land. We will let you decide which one of us was looking forward to which one.
After filling up we headed the 36km to Cahills Crossing which was pretty low as the tides were in our favour today. Once we crossed here within 1km it was though we were in a different park. The landscape was more open with floodplains on our left hand side and rocky outcrops and escarpment on our right. This went on for some time before becoming rocky outcrops on both sides as we neared Oenpelli. A left turn onto bitumen and we were soon driving through town straight to the arts centre (we were told that as part of our permit we were not to go anywhere else other than the art centre).
When we pulled up outside there were three cars already parked outside. As we walked inside a party of four passed us and were part of a group visiting the arts centre. The arts centre is very unassuming on the outside dressed with some decorative aboriginal art painting. As you enter it's air conditioned interior there are two main areas of fabulous aboriginal art lovingly prepared and on sale for your delight to discover. I felt so honoured to be able to make a selection of purchases as they are selling at wholesale prices. Things however are not cheap by any means. Brett and I decided to purchase a circular grass mat which will become a wall hanging. The hand printed fabrics are really nice too. We also purchased some fabric which will be stretched over canvas and become a wall hanging (cheaper than buying a painting). I also purchased some wonderfull kids books about Kakadu. The special thing that was also for sale in the shop were hand made baskets. They were so expensive but I so appreciate now the work involved in each piece. They are woven from pandanus leaves which are hand torn into 4mm strips and hand dyed. Then woven into baskets by hand in varying shapes colours and styles. I bought a small 20cm size one as a table or sideboard centrepiece size was about $200. They also had a lot of paintings on bark and paper. We decided to ship our grass mat rather than try carrying it with us in the trailer as shipping was only costing $25. Lastly when we exited the building a group of three ladies had been basket weaving and I went over to briefly chat. I did not want to impose on them too much as they were just stopping for lunch.
Once again the view surrounding the art centre was really special and Brett enjoyed photographing its splendour. Definitely worthwhile visiting again.
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| The view out the back of the town and art centre. |
On the drive back out of Arnhem land we got 5 km down the road and I asked Brett if I could go back to buy a piece of fabric which we did. So on our way out again we stopped and took some photoes before the river crossing out of Arnhem land.
There is such beauty in Kakadu and Arnhem land. It is a very special place.
Brett dropped me off as he did the water crossing again at cahills crossing for me to photograph. There is a viewing platform and smack bang in the river is a croc so I photographed both in the river crossing.
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| The croc is in the top right of the river. |
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| These guys were trying their luck at the boat ramp. |
That early evening we went to Ubirr to view the rock art gallery before walking to the top of the rock escarpment to view the sunset as many others did too. At one of the rock art sites we just arrived as a ranger was giving a talk on that particular site as well as general aboriginal life in the area. There were many paintings of fish and other animals in the x-ray style with the highlighted parts of the animal being the most tasty bits. She described it as a sort of menu on the wall as well as possible bragging rights for the size of a fish they may have caught. There are even some paintings in the site which are so old even the aboriginals say are painted by the spirits rather than themselves.
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| A painting believed to be painted by the spirits. |
Very special to see the sunset across the wetlands from the top of the escarpment at Ubirr. I was a bit panicky with Chantelle not going near the edge but all was good.
Once the sun had set most set off down the escarpment before it got too dark for the half hour drive back to Jabiru. We got back just in time for a slide show that was being given in the caravan park by another ranger about the animals found in Kakadu. It was very interesting but Chantelle was quite tired and we all know what tired children can be like so we retreated back to the camper to settle in for the night.
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